

We stayed by the beach and had access to a magnificent view of the sea flanked by the Dutch fort on the bay. One can stroll through all of Tharangambadi in less than five hours, that’s how tiny the town is. (The most impressive displays include the village police inspector’s badge, a whale skeleton and the jaws of an alligator laid out flat.) Dansborg Fort, Tharangambadi. The governor’s bungalow, for instance, is being painstakingly renovated and the Dutch fort by the sea doubles as a museum of recovered artifacts. The government and Neemrana hotels are investing time and money into restoring Tranquebar to its former glory. An inside view of the Governor’s bungalow, still under renovation. Perhaps the locals draw inspiration from the Masilamani Temple, the 14 th century place of worship that stands proud despite the devastation of the pounding waters on its walls. I’m unsure about the extent of the destruction caused by the tsunami in Tharangambadi, but I found it heartening to know that the people have managed to bounce back well enough – fishing is still the primary means of income for the locals and the sea is just as revered as it was before the calamity.

The 14th century Masilamani Temple sprayed with 20th century rainbow colours, depriving it of its old-world charm.


In fact, the predominant architecture in the area is still Dutch, although some of the landscape has been altered by the tsunami. A remote town on Tamil Nadu’s coastal belt, Tharangambadi is best known for its erstwhile role as a port for trade between India and the Dutch lands. Most people are familiar with the Danish name for the place – Tranquebar/Trincobar the name was changed more recently to the vernacular one. A view of the Dansborg Fort from our hotel. Eight days ago, I was privy to beautiful stories from a mingled history in a town that survived the Tsunami of 2004: Tharangambadi. What’s better than textbook history? History that you can touch, taste and experience in its many forms that unfolds as stories, remnants of a distant past. The beach by the Bungalow by the Beach – a Neemrana ‘non-hotel’ hotel.
